Monks on a Train

I'm on day three of my first trip and things are going really well so far! My group is really nice and easygoing, and so far everything has gone pretty smoothly! We took the overnight train last night up to Chiang Mai, which is one of my favorite places. The train is nice, too. We were in a car FULL of monks, though. It was really funny! There were probably 20 of them! There's a huge monastery here called Doi Suthep (we're going tonight) so it's not surprising, but I felt nervous around so many of them in such close proximity.

The monks here are so beautiful - they wear bright orange robes, their heads are shaved, and they just pop no matter what scenery surrounds them. Seeing them chant at Doi Suthep is really a beautiful, moving experience. But there are so many rules, especially for women (because they are celibate and we are all temptresses - it's true!) Don't touch them, don't look them in the eye, don't speak to them, don't sit next to them on a bus, you must be lower than them at all times, cover your shoulders and knees, etc., etc., etc. I take these rules very seriously, of course, and I think it's what makes them so mysterious and beautiful. It's mostly for politeness and respect, but really also has to do with the fact that they are only human and ladies are way distracting....ha.

Anyway, on the train, I was literally sat next to two monks. Young guys, probably early 20s, and I was so nervous! I didn't know how not to be taller than them, or not brush against them in the aisle or look at them. After sitting back with my group for a big Singha beer and some cards, I came back to my seat and just tried to read and sit primly with my knees covered. But the the train steward came around to set up my bed and then I wasn't just SITTING next to them, I was laying in bed! With an aisle between us of course, but still, it all seemed incredibly potentially scandalous, for sure. So I just shut my curtain and went to sleep.

This morning, though, we were all up bright and early for coffee and I was sitting, watching the sun come up along the countryside, and the monk across the aisle started to talk to me! This was a first. Then he offered me his leftover breakfast sandwich - and I said no thank you! I was so stunned that he was talking to me, I refused a blessed sandwich. Then, I was just incredibly embarrassed and really hoped I hadn't offended him. Ha. And another woman in our group said that the night before one monk came up to her berth and chanted for a while, then struck up a conversation with her to practice his English. So I guess these were just young, progressive modern monks? I dunno. In any event, they were very friendly and apparently able to handle sitting in a train cabin with the ladies.

Ok, I think I can finally check into my room now, and I am in desperate need of shower and some MTV Asia.

xxx
E